The Bodgers Guide To The Solex by
William R Blankley
more by William Blankley
Take one old and worn
screwdriver, scrape off enough dirt to be able to see the
carburettor, wash with WD40 to take the grit away and
lubricate the rusted remains of the linkages then check;-
That the
throttle closes to the STOP.
That the
throttle can be fully opened by depressing the
pedal.
At idle no
gasoline can be seen dripping down the right hand
side barrel. (an unsteady idle will be observed)
If it does it's a float & valve job as that
means flooding. I have seen this on new cars
expletive deleted. The "needle" in the
valve jams across at an angle sometimes, unless
you are very careful doing the dismantling it
will be rattled loose again and no apparent cause
for the trouble will be seen.
If you want to set the
idle, you could try this way;-
Get the engine
stinking hot first. Then screw the by-pass air
screw right home.
Using the
throttle stop screw in conjunction with the
mixture adjustment set the motor up to run at 780
r.p.m. After this leave the throttle stop alone.
Gently and
carefully open the by-pass adjustment then adjust
the idle mixture for max r.p.m., edge them up a
bit at a time until 880-900 r.p.m.
Screw the
mixture adjustment (it's the one on the bottom,
in the throttle plate) in, clockwise, this is
lean I hope? until the revs drop to the magic 850
or so.
Note that a good ear
can hear the revs drop and that if the air intake is
partially obscured the idle can be heard to pick up. This
takes some practice.
William
R Blankley
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